The path to the right Western bit
When we think of Western riding, we have an image in mind of a horse with a Western curb bit or a horse ridden bitless with a bosal. The bit used is also a sensitive issue in Western riding. Outsiders often criticise at the use of a plain Western curb bit, while Western riders say that a Western curb bit is the gentler method than a loose ring snaffle because of the way it is used. We have explained in „Western bits and their effect“ that a plain Western curb bit per se is not harsher than other bits.
Basically, every bit, regardless of whether it is used in Western or English riding, can be incorrectly fitted or selected, and in the wrong hands can be extremely harsh and harm the horse. To prevent this from happening, this guide is dedicated to finding the right Western bit for your horse.
Which Western bit is the right one for my horse?
Suitable equipment for a Western horse is essential. Not only the Western saddle or the Western headstall, but also the Western bit must fit the horse perfectly. Just as there is a wide choice of Western saddles and headstalls to suit the discipline, age and training level of the horse, we have the same situation with bits.
A quiet leisure horse has different basic requirements and training goals than a top-class show horse. This is reflected in the choice of the appropriate Western bit. If the horse is to compete in a Western show, it is mandatory in the individual disciplines and age groups which bit or bit with shanks may be used.
The age and level of training also play a major role: Young horses in Western riding are mainly broken in bitless, for example with a bosal. To get them used to a bit, their trainers then switch to a snaffle bit, which is very good at separating lateral aids and thus making them clearer to the horse.
As long as the horse is ridden two-handed and needs the direct connection to the rider’s hand, a snaffle bit is a good choice. In the course of training, when the horse can walk between the reins in a self-carriage (neck reining) and thus one-handed rein control is possible, you can switch to a bit with shanks. Here you have the choice between bits with shanks, which are jointed Western bits, and the well-known Western curb bit – a mullen mouth bit with shanks.
Remember: A green horse and a rider with unsteady hands should not use a Western bit with shanks, as this can have a very strong effect due to the leverage. It should be mentioned here that even a simple snaffle bit is no less harsh if the chinstrap and reins build up too much pressure.
In addition to the level of training of horse and rider, the temperament of the horse also plays a role. A temperamental horse may be more likely to be ridden with a stronger bit than a calm, plod along horse. The horse’s sensitivity also plays an important role in the choice of whether a bit with shanks is preferable to a snaffle bit.
Remember: The horse must always be assessed in its entirety. A bit cannot replace or make up for correct, solid basic training. So instead of relying on a harsher bit alone with a strong horse, one should work on the weight aids and mental strength of the horse and check the saddle for a correct fit. After all, rushing can be an indication of stress, not being challenged enough or unsuitable equipment.
The thickness and length of Western bits
The condition of the horse’s mouth determines the size of the bit. It is worth taking a look at the horse’s mouth. If the bit does not fit the horse’s mouth, it will be permanently uncomfortable for the horse, which will not accept the aids easily. The metal can press on the sensitive, thin-skinned bars and cause bruising. This happens with both too large and too small bits. An incorrect bit prevents the tongue from moving, which means the horse cannot swallow. Western breeds in particular have small mouths with short mouth gaps. Well-intentioned, thick bits can then have exactly the opposite effect and press too much on the tongue. The correct bit length and bit thickness must therefore be assessed in the next step.
The bit length can be easily determined with a bit measure. Otherwise, proceed as follows when choosing the correct bit length:
An O-ring snaffle bit with continuous rings should have 2.5 to 5mm space between the lip and the ring. A snaffle Dee bit with fixed sides, on the other hand, should fit tighter than an O-ring snaffle for the side limiting effect. If you choose a Western curb bit or any other Western bit with shanks, it should also fit snugly on the horse’s mouth.
The bit thickness is not quite so easy to determine. Only a look into the mouth will tell you how much space there is between the bars and between the palate and the tongue in which a Western bit should lie.
You can check this by carefully placing two fingers between the bars – the area where the teeth do not come together. If you feel pressure on your fingers, then only a bit no thicker than 16mm will fit in the horse’s small mouth.
The narrow head of many Western breeds offers little space in the horse’s mouth. Therefore, in contrast to classic bits for English riding with 16 to 18 mm, Western bits are considerably narrower with an average of 11 mm.
The right mouthpiece for Western bits
The mouthpiece influences how smoothly the bit lies in the horse’s mouth and how comfortable the horse feels with it. A single or double jointed loose ring bit is not always the most comfortable solution for the horse, as many riders assume. Some horses prefer a mullen mouth bit. If you still want to give rein aids with both hands, then a Billy Allen bit can be recommended – or a mullen mouth bit with mouthpiece parts that can be turned independently of each other.
If the horse chews with an open mouth, pushes the metal around in its mouth and wrinkles its nostrils, this is a clear sign that the horse is not comfortable with the mouthpiece. The correct bit size can be measured, the correct mouthpiece can only be found by trial and error.
The selection of mouthpieces and bit types is also justifiably extensive in Western riding. Because every horse has its own preferences and anatomical requirements when it comes to the bit. We have summarised for you in detail how the individual mouthpieces of Western bits work in the guide „Western bits and their effect“.
The port influences the comfort of the horse as well. Western bits in particular use different port sizes and shapes. A high port has the effect of pushing the horse to react quicker. If the reins are shortened and the bit is turned, the port stands up and presses against the palate. To escape this pressure, the horse must give way in the neck or lower the head. This is especially the case with high, narrow ports, which also slightly hold the tongue in place. The higher the port, the harsher the effect of the bit. For riders who hold on to the reins, a Western bit with a high, narrow port is taboo!
Mullen mouth bits with flat, wide ports, on the other hand, allow the horse to swallow more easily. This is because the horse has to lift its tongue to swallow. But there are limits here too: The size of the port must fit into the horse’s mouth, otherwise the metal can press on the bone of the bars in narrow mouths and squeeze the tongue between them.
Length of the shanks
If the horse responds well to the aids and no longer needs direct contact with the reins, you can change to a bit with shanks. These bits have attachments that reinforce a signal or refine the way the aids are given. The decisive factor when choosing a Western bit with shanks is the length and the curve of the shanks.
The shanks can be compared to a seesaw that moves around a pivot point. In the case of the bit, this pivot point is the mouthpiece. As a rule, a seesaw is balanced, it consists of two parts of equal length so that it can balance. However, if one side is longer than the other, leverage sets in. It is the same with a Western bit with shanks: the longer one side, the greater the forces acting on the other, shorter side. This means that even so-called baby bits with comparatively short lower shanks can have a strong effect if the ratio between the upper and lower shanks is unbalanced. If the bit is to have a particularly gentle effect, i.e. exert as little leverage as possible, then the shanks must not only be short, but also almost the same length.
The curve of the shanks also plays an important role. Many Western bits are more or less bent backwards. This shortens the distance travelled from the mouthpiece to the ring of the rein. A shorter lever also means less force is applied.
However, the application of force is not the only factor that determines the harshness of the bit. Because the impulse time must also be included in the calculation. The longer the lever, the greater the force applied, but the signal arrives at the horse with a time delay. The lever must first cover a longer distance. The curb chain can shorten the impulse time. In the guidebook on accessories for Western bits we go into more detail about the role of curb chains. In contrast to the long shanks, there are short shanks which have an equally short impulse route and are therefore no less harsh. They have a less violent effect, but are faster and more direct.
A bit with long shanks is therefore recommended for a horse that is well trained and no longer needs rein aids, as it can mainly be ridden with neck reining and via leg and weight aids. For a horse that needs gentle correction with the reins from time to time should you should choose a bit with short, balanced shanks. A horse that is not yet properly trained or accepting any aids should not be ridden with a bit with shanks.
Last step: The correct buckling of the Western bit
You have now found the right Western bit for your horse, it fits the horse’s mouth both in thickness and length. Now you have to buckle the bit correctly into the Western headstall.
The wrinkles in the corners of the mouth are often taken as a guide to whether the bit is at the right height in the mouth. One to a maximum of three folds are taken as a guide. However, this information should not be relied upon, as every horse has different mouth gaps and fleshy lips. It is much more important to look into the mouth.
The bit must be placed in the toothless part of the horse’s mouth. If the bit is too high, there is a risk that the metal will hit the molars, abrading the enamel and causing the horse pain. If the bit is too low, the horse can put its tongue over it and in the worst case (if the cheek pieces are set much too long) even spit out the bit. The correct buckling of the Western bit must be discovered individually for each horse. Observe the reaction of your horse. If it starts chewing on the bit nervously and clearly audibly, the bit may be too high. If your horse starts to play restlessly with its tongue and tries to spit out the bit, the bit is probably too low.
When the height is right, the chinstrap or the curb chain can be buckled. There should be at least two fingers space between the strap and the lower bars. You can find more information about this in the guide to accessories for Western bits.
Further Information:
In the guide to Western headstalls, we show you with the different variations of Western headstalls and take you on a digression about bitless Western bridles.