Using Auxiliary Reins Correctly: Working Horses With Auxiliary Reins

There are many types of auxiliary reins, giving the trainer a wide range of training options. Nevertheless, auxiliary reins can pose many ethical and training-related problems if you rely on them too much. We have discussed the risks and opportunities of using auxiliary reins in more detail in the corresponding chapter. In this guide, we will now look at the practical aspects of auxiliary reins and illustrate how they can be used as an aid in a well-founded, varied and systematically structured training programme.

The Point at Which Auxiliary Reins Can Be a Useful Aid

We have dispelled the prejudices about auxiliary reins in our guide to the advantages and risks of auxiliary reins. Nevertheless, you should seriously consider whether they are really necessary before using them. This is because auxiliary reins have a decisive impact on the horse’s health, suppleness and muscle development. You should also bear in mind that their use alone will not solve the problems faced or achieve the training goals. It takes more than that!

Auxiliary reins can be considered as a short-term corrective measure. They are used briefly and in a problem-orientated manner. The primary training goal is to manage without auxiliary reins. Permanent use is strongly discouraged – this applies both to individual training sessions and to the horse’s entire training programme. If auxiliary reins are used as a permanent measure, for example to shorten the training time, this will result in a lack of balance, incorrectly developed muscles, tension and signs of wear and tear.

In the German Equestrian Federation guidelines, auxiliary reins are only explained in Volume 6 “Lungeing“ with regard to training. This is because when lungeing, there is no contact and lateral limitation from the rider’s hand. For this reason, we will discuss auxiliary reins in lungeing below, although the points are also applicable to riding.

Typical Mistakes When Using Auxiliary Reins

Lack of Root-Cause Analysis

One of the most common mistakes when using auxiliary reins is to see them as a speed-up in dressage training. No root-cause analysis is carried out to eliminate the problems at the root of the training. Instead, the use of auxiliary reins treats the symptom – but the cause remains. This results in false successes, the fallacy of which comes to light as soon as the auxiliary reins are removed.

The reason: Auxiliary reins alone only affect the forehand from front to back – the horse stamps audibly on the forehand, the hindquarters remain inactive. Many problems in the horse’s back and hindquarters are caused by their inactivity and tension. If these are not activated through gymnastic exercises, the auxiliary reins remain ineffective or even counterproductive.

The auxiliary reins must be seen as a support in exercising and not as the key to success.

Auxiliary Reins That Are Too Short

It is a widespread problem: auxiliary reins that are too short disrupt the horse’s biomechanics. The neck serves as a balancing pole for the horse, which it uses to balance itself on uneven ground or in tight turns. The position of the neck also has an effect on the hindquarters and vice versa. If the reins are too short, the horse is deprived of its ability to balance itself.

In addition to mental stress, this forced posture has negative effects on the horse’s physical health: a false bend is created in the neck, the neck muscles are overstretched, the back becomes tense and the hindquarters cannot swing under the centre of gravity. Instead, the muscle tone increases. While the topline remains slack, the lower neck muscles work against the continuous pull. The hindquarters run behind the horse, causing the buttock muscles to shorten.

The health consequences of auxiliary reins that are too short go even further: the exaggerated rolling in of the neck restricts the blood flow to the heart, which means oxygen-rich blood can no longer be pumped into the muscles. The muscles literally starve and the horse remains poorly muscled despite training.

The horse will never learn to balance itself and lean permanently on the bit. This is comparable to a child learning to ride a bike: as long as the child uses the training wheels, it will never learn to ride a bike properly on two wheels.

In addition, the horse will not voluntarily drop its head due to the associated pain because it has negative associations with it. Lungeing, like riding, is a dialogue between horse and human. If you lash the horse together, you prohibit it from participating in this dialogue.

When Auxiliary Reins Are Attached Too Early and for Too Long

Auxiliary reins imitate a rigid rider’s hand and restrict the horse’s head and neck movement. If the auxiliary reins are buckled in at the beginning of the session, this leads to tension. The situation is comparable to attempting the splits without warming up: Cold muscles aren’t flexible enough to be stretched into the correct position. It hurts, leads to torn muscle fibres and sore muscles.

The same applies to the use of auxiliary reins with young horses that are not yet able to balance themselves or use their hindquarters correctly. Before auxiliary reins are attached, the horse must be able to balance itself to some extent and approach the bit from behind. If the young horse cannot choose its neck position freely because it is dictated to it by the reins, this will cause discomfort and stress in the horse. For this reason, auxiliary reins do not belong on young horses!

Furthermore, the longer the horse is exercised in auxiliary reins, the more tension builds up. After just 10 to 20 minutes in auxiliary reins, the muscles can become tired. This is because, unlike the rider’s hand, auxiliary reins do not give way as soon as the horse is moving in the correct position. As a result, the horse may hold on tightly until it loses its strength. Exercising the horse in auxiliary reins for an entire lungeing or riding session has negative effects on the horse’s suppleness and muscle development.

Shortening the Inside Auxiliary Reins for Outward-Facing Horses

If a horse’s head is tilted or it constantly looks outwards when being lunged, the problem here is also a lack of balance. The horse is stiff, not relaxed, it falls on its inside shoulder and turns its head outwards. As a result, the lunger is tempted to pull incessantly on the lunge rein in order to influence the horse’s head position. Or the inside auxiliary rein is buckled two or more holes shorter. This is also common practice in the working phase: as soon as the horse has warmed up, the inside rein is shortened. However, this procedure is counterproductive. It causes the horse to stiffen up, fight against it and further strengthen the wrong muscles. In addition, the horse will still turn its head in such a way that the outer rein slackens and loses its lateral limiting effect. By shortening the inside rein, a symptom is combated and an attempt is made to straighten the crooked horse by force. The solution to the problem lies in finding balance.

In the case of crooked horses with a very pronounced hollow side, the route involves systematic bending and straightening with the help of numerous transitions, lateral movements, changes of rein and trot poles. Cavaletti, tightening and enlarging circles, rein back, turns on the haunches, and half pirouettes in walk also train the horse’s balance. Both auxiliary reins – if used – are of equal length.

Fastening the Auxiliary Reins Higher if the Horse Curls Behind the Contact

If the horse curls behind the bit, it would be wrong to fasten side reins or lauffer reins higher in order to achieve a higher elevation. This would only address the symptom but not get to the root of the problem. The cause of curling behind the vertical is simple: the horse lacks balance and propulsion from the hindquarters. The aim is therefore to round the back and activate the hindquarters through pole work, pace and gait changes and alternating between riding in straight line and curves. In doing so, the horse moves forwards, but not in a hurry beyond its natural basic pace, which would otherwise prevent the hindquarters from working.

Using Rubberised Auxiliary Reins or Auxiliary Reins With Rubber Parts

Rubberised auxiliary reins or side reins with rubber rings have been developed in the belief that they should make things easier for the horse. However, the slight yielding of the material means that the horse does not push off the bit, but leans on it. This results in a tug-of-war between the horse and the bit, causing the horse to fall onto its forehand.

To train the horse’s balance and show it the way to round its back, an auxiliary rein with rubber rings is counterproductive. However, it can be useful for vaulting horses, as well as for school horses being ridden by beginners who do not yet have a soft hand, to protect the horse’s mouth..

Further Taboos With Auxiliary Reins:

• Auxiliary reins attached to sharp bits such as curb bits
• Auxiliary reins when hacking (danger if the horse trips/falls); exception: martingale
• Auxiliary reins when jumping (the stretching position is not possible); exception: martingale
• Auxiliary reins use by beginners (when lungeing and without supervision)
• Using auxiliary reins to prevent a horse from bolting (they cannot do this)

How to Use Auxiliary Reins Correctly When Riding and Lungeing

We recognise that the sole use of auxiliary reins does not turn a horse into a relaxed, submissive and healthy muscled riding horse. The basis of any training goal is a long-term, gradual and systematic approach to training. Auxiliary reins cannot replace correct riding or lungeing and ground work, but they can support them. Therefore, pay attention to the following principles when working with auxiliary reins:

The horse must be warmed up well before you think about using auxiliary reins. The horse is in a relaxed mental state and its muscles, ligaments and tendons are prepared for the work. The horse’s relaxed state can be recognised by a contented facial expression, a swinging back, a tail that swings with the movements and the voluntary stretching of the neck.

The horse must walk for at least 10 minutes and have completed the first exercises towards making it supple. After around 20 to 25 minutes, the horse is warmed up in all basic gaits and can move on to the working phase with auxiliary reins. The same applies to school horses!

After the work phase, the auxiliary reins are removed again for the cool-down to prevent muscle fatigue.

As a general rule, do not let the horse work in auxiliary reins for longer than 10 to 20 minutes. Tired muscles must be able to recover, otherwise tension, incorrect strain and the formation of muscles in the wrong places will be provoked.

The Auxiliary Reins Should Allow the Horse to Move Its Neck and Head

The length of the auxiliary reins depends on the size/length of the horse and its neck, how the neck is set and the horse’s movement pattern. The length should be chosen so that the horse can continue to use its neck and head as a balancing pole. The aim should not be to pull the horse into a round topline, as a beautiful neck shape is the result of systematic exercises and active hindquarters. In addition, stretching forwards and downwards must be allowed. Therefore, after a few rounds, the auxiliary reins may need to be corrected for longer. This is because the horse may stay in front of the vertical when standing, but curl behind the contact when moving.

If the horse raises its head now and then, this should be ignored unless the horse is constantly running with its head up and its back pushed downwards. If the horse lifts its head up once, this serves to relieve the strain and it needs a break after the physical exertion. The horse must also be able to react to its surroundings by raising its head. With correct training, the horse will learn to move in a healthy posture (rounded topline and back) on its own and for increasingly longer periods of time.

Possible Sequence for a Lungeing Session With Side Reins

• The horse is warmed up for at least 10 minutes without side reins
• Relaxation phase: Start with loosening exercises such as moving sideways, lots of rein changes, transitions and changes of tempo. After 20 to 25 minutes, the horse’s tendons, ligaments and muscles are sufficiently warmed up.
• Working phase: The side reins can be buckled in, ensuring they are sufficiently long and of equal length.
• Start on the “good“ side of the horse.
• It may be necessary to shorten the length of the side reins as the horse becomes warmer, looser and more relaxed.
• After a few minutes of trotting, the canter can be added.
• Cool-down: After the work phase, unbuckle the side reins and let the horse trot loosely on the lunge or lead it in hand to cool down at a walk.