FAQ about bridles and bridle accessories

1. How do you measure a bridle?

2. What size bridle does my horse need?

3. Which bridle should I choose for my pony?

4. How does the bit fit properly in the bridle?

5. Which bridle is best for jumping?

6. How much does a good bridle cost?

7. Why can an anatomical bridle be useful?

8. Which bridle suits my young horse?

9. Can I compete with a bitless bridle?

10. How can I check if the noseband is buckled correctly?

11. How can I prevent my horse from getting caught in the martingale over a jump?

1. How do you measure a bridle?

The size of the bridle is determined by the size of the horse’s head. The best way to do this is with a tape measure, alternatively you can put a ribbon or string around the head and then measure the length.

The following measurements are important:

• Nose circumference/noseband: measure 2 to 3 fingers below the cheekbone, with one finger under the measuring tape.
• Head length/crown piece and cheek pieces: measured from mouth corner to mouth corner, with the tape measure placed over the head of the horse.
• Brow width/browband: From cheek piece to cheek piece, including the loops.
• Room for cheeks/ throatlash: Measuring tape is placed just below the base of the ears.

The results must be rounded up to whole centimetres.

2. What size bridle does my horse need?

Many manufacturers do not give a detailed table of measurements for their bridles, but divide the sizes into Shetland pony, pony, cob, full and extra full. The following table can serve as a guide:

3. Which bridle should I choose for my pony?

Breeding has changed and so have the proportions of horses. Horses are generally getting wider at the forehead and the head is getting bigger. Therefore, regular pony sizes may no longer fit a pony. Apart from measuring, the only way to find the right bridle is to try it on. Sometimes a bridle for fulls can fit a pony. Otherwise, the fitting of the bridle does not differ from that of a full. Guideline measurements for a bridle can be found under point 2.

4. How does the bit fit properly in the bridle?

The bit is buckled into the cheek straps. Already when putting on the bridle, you should notice whether the cheek straps are too short or too long. The bit fits correctly if there is a small crease at the corner of the mouth. If the crease is not there and the horse can almost spit out the mouthpiece or it hits the canine teeth, the cheek straps must be buckled shorter. The cheek straps must be buckled longer if it looks like the horse is going into a permanent grin.

When fine-tuning, the rein is shortened slightly from the ground so that it is in contact. If the cheek piece sticks out or sags, the bit is still too loose. If the bit does not move from the spot, the length is correct and the bit sits correctly in the bridle.

5. Which bridle is best for jumping?

In showjumping, as in eventing, the horse needs plenty of freedom to breathe. Especially with eventing horses, bloated nostrils are a typical sight. In order to keep the airways completely free, a grackle bridle with two crossed nosebands is the ideal solution. These offer absolute freedom to breath and also allow more freedom in the choice of bit due to the buckling. Grackle nosebands are also gentler, which can be advantageous when riding fast through the course or cross-country.

6. How much does a good bridle cost?

If you want to ride, a bridle and reins are as much a part of your basic equipment as a headcollar and lead rope. When browsing, however, you quickly realise that the price spectrum is equally as wide as the variety of options.

In the lower price segment, good bridles start at around £50. Anatomical bridles, bridles with elaborate details or bridles made of high-quality leather can climb above the £100 mark.

Of course, reins are not to be missed, which, depending on the material, can start at around £20.

7. Why can an anatomical bridle be useful?

Anatomical bridles take into account the anatomy of the horse’s head and, due to their special construction, bypass the facial nerves located directly under the thin skin. This makes the bridle more comfortable to wear for the horse and prevents damage to the facial nerves or chafing on bones as much as possible. Many anatomical bridles have a curved crown piece so that the ear base is left out. The crown piece is also wider. However, care must be taken that it is not too wide. Horses with a delicate head, for example Arabians, do not have much room behind the ears for a wide crown piece, as this could otherwise press on the atlas vertebrae and cause blockages.

Furthermore, the cheek pieces of some anatomical bridles are cut back or curved so that the cheekbone, the main facial nerve and the eyes are left out.

Due to the optimal adaptation to the horse’s head, a better contact and suppleness can be observed in the horse, which also has a positive effect on the rideability.

8. Which bridle suits my young horse?

The step from headcollar to bridle is a big one for the young horse. As with all steps in the training of young horses, meticulous attention should be paid to all details when choosing the first bridle. Even small mistakes in the approach or a bridle that does not fit one hundred per cent can become engrained in the horse’s memory and be difficult to erase.

The bridle must have the correct fit. You can read about how to measure a bridle correctly under point 1.

The first step is to get the horse used to the bit. Too many straps would therefore be a nuisance at first, as the distribution of pressure is not yet important. While the horse is getting used to the mouthpiece, there should not be any pulling of the reins. A cavesson or flash noseband is a good choice as the first bridle for a young horse. In order not to overstrain the horse due to too many straps and buckles, the noseband can also be omitted for the time being during the familiarisation phase. Later, when the reins are buckled in the bit, the noseband should be reattached for better pressure distribution.

A conceivable alternative to the bridle is a cavesson with the possibility of attaching a bit. This way, the reins can be attached to the cavesson rings and used for directional guidance while the horse can get used to wearing a bit.

9. Can I compete with a bitless bridle?

Many first-class riders have already proven that horses can master difficult lessons with flying colours even without a bridle bit. But unfortunately, in dressage it is usually not allowed to present the horse bitless in the test. According to the British Horse Society, it is only possible to compete without a bit in special competitions.

In showjumping, the picture is different again. Here it is more common to ride without a bit. Hackamores are often used here.

The best thing to do is to check your organiser’s rule book before the competition.

10. How can I check if the noseband is buckled correctly?

The two-finger rule is sometimes the most important rule in fitting the noseband. The horse must be allowed to chew, breathe, swallow and yawn while riding. These movements of the jaw must not be hindered by a noseband that is buckled too tightly.

At the same time, the two-finger rule is very vague because fingers can have different sizes and thicknesses, adult fingers are larger than children’s fingers. Fingertips are also thinner than the second phalanx. Therefore, there are other ways to check that the noseband is not buckled too tight (the same goes for the flash strap):

• Read the horse’s facial expression: does the horse resist tightening the noseband? Do the ears tilt back and are the eyes turned inwards? If the horse shows a relaxed expression and radiates satisfaction, the noseband is not too tight.
• Carrot test: Also works with a treat. Can the horse bite off the carrot with the noseband closed (with the incisors) and chew it without throwing its head? If yes, the noseband fits correctly.

11. How can I prevent my horse from getting caught in the martingale over the jump?

In the jump, when the horse bends the front legs and pulls against the belly, it can happen that he gets caught in the martingale with his hooves or shoes. The best way to close the distance between the horse’s belly and the strap is to use a sheepskin cover. This is pulled over the strap and also serves to prevent chafing.